With 7.688 million square kilometres of land and approximately 12,000 beaches and 439 rivers, Australia is a massive country with countless destinations to take your boat. This huge landmass is made of many different terrains on which towing can be challenging. Taking your boat to a secluded beach or tributary often means traversing unsealed roads with corrugations and little support and wriggle room. To ensure your boat makes it to your destination in one piece and that you and your loved ones have a smooth ride, an offroad boat trailer is necessary.
Offroad boat trailers differ from regular boat trailers in the sense that they have offroad suspension which absorbs a lot of the vibrations often resulting from poor roads/tracks. Having a weak or unsatisfactory trailer can damage your boat and cause a world of pain — imagine spending days to get to your destination only to find out you’ve smashed up your boat!
If you’re a keen angler, some of Australia’s best fishing spots are in very remote places and require an offroad trailer coupled with the appropriate suspension. Key considerations for a 4WD boat trailer include something light, easy to move and big/stable enough to take out even when choppy. Ideally, you should be able to take your offroad trailer anywhere you take your 4WD, including some hard-to-reach places like Steep Point and the rough tracks around Kalbarri’s Murchison House Station in WA, and Cape York in Far North Queensland.
Quality suspension for offroad use
Your offroad boat trailer needs to be tough enough that it is going to protect your boat while not falling apart. The most critical component to achieve this is quality suspension, which needs to absorb the bumps and corrugations as much as possible, so your boat doesn’t take the brunt of the shock. Trailer suspension is the flexible connection between the trailer frame and the axle — and is usually made up of springs, airbags, rubber globs or a combination of these.
Usually, the best type of suspension for offroad trailers is any form of independent suspension, whereas slipper leaf springs are not recommended for offroad use due to their rigidness. The reason independent suspension is favourable for offroad boat trailers is because you can control each wheel’s suspension individually and each wheel is not disturbed by the activities of the other wheels on the trailer. Independent trailing arm setups are robust and best used for this application but it’s important to keep an eye on bushes which can wear out, as well as alignment which will show as uneven tyre wear.
With varying types of boat trailer suspensions to choose from, we can help narrow down that choice for you. Our newest suspension system for boats/caravans, the AL-KO Enduro X, is designed to ensure next-generation performance and handling in unpredictable offroad conditions. The system uses exclusive innovative technology and a lightweight construction which results in improved handling while maintaining strength. The system features premium AL-KO shock absorbers with upgraded metal casing and a premium Black eCoat to ensure rust and chip resistance — which is critical on a boat trailer.
Trailer body/main chassis
After establishing that you have the right suspension on board your trailer, it needs keel support so that a majority of the weight of the boat is supported by the keel on the hull. It’s important that your boat’s weight is almost entirely on the hull and spread over a larger contact patch of rollers. On par with this is ensuring you have a strong chassis and drawbar as this is the main part of your trailer on which everything is built and needs to be strong enough to support the whole ensemble and heavy load.
Another important requirement is quality slides — the slides on the trailer should be strong and stop the boat from rocking and moving … they’re not there to take the weight of the boat. When going offroad, it’s favourable to have non-adjustable slides as adjustable slides are more likely to move when on rough roads.
The ground clearance under the trailer’s axle is also important and should be similar to the clearance under your tow vehicle. You should also consider the entry and departure angles depending on where you are planning on driving, however, remember that the higher the boat sits, the harder it will be to launch.
When considering the tie-down points for your unit, it’s recommended to use light-duty ratchet straps or weld down several tie-down points on either side of the chassis. Your boat should be firmly on the trailer but not pulled down with so much pressure that you damage the hull over rough roads. Ideally, your boat should not be able to move up or down at all.
Winch and mounting points
The winch plays a vital role when towing your boat as it keeps the boat in position on your trailer — ultimately, this is the only thing that stops the boat moving forwards and backwards and should be done right. A broken winch strap can result in a number of accidents affecting you and others on the road. Due to their constant exposure to the elements, winch straps are liable to degrade quickly and should be checked regularly. A good way to tell if your winch strap is weak or should be replaced is colour fasting as UV damage ruins the integrity of the winch.
A quality coupling is an important element of any boat trailer, which brings us to the AL-KO Off-Road Ball Coupling. This coupling came into existence due to the insufficient articulation provided by a standard coupling when it came to offroad use. Now many years down the track, our Aussie engineers have incorporated feedback from manufacturers, retailers and caravan/boat owners into a new-generation product that provides further improved ease of use and durability for serious offroad applications. The advanced coupling incorporates extreme vertical and horizontal articulation as well as a quick and easy hitching design that requires no pin or hole alignment.
Tyres and underneath the trailer frame
The main consideration below the trailer chassis is having enough clearance between the top of the tyre and the mudguard, and then between the mudguard and the boat. Having suitable tyres to accommodate this is vital. Big tyres are best because you can let them down hugely and they provide a larger surface area when let down to absorb more of the shocks.
Another important consideration is tyre pressures. The bigger the tyre, the more support it has and therefore the less pressure you need to run. The benefit of this is twofold: the trailer floats nicely on the tracks but it also absorbs a huge amount of the vibrations and bumps through the tyres without needing to use the suspension.
Often when travelling on rough Aussie roads, your mudguards are the first to break. Sheet metal mudguards crack easily over vibrations and will let go very quickly. It’s therefore a good idea to install a stainless-steel flat bar to support the mudguards. There are a few different ways to do this, and they often require a bit of DIY action.
When it comes to your axle and bearings, a square axle and parallel bearings are recommended.
Weight and support
The load capacity of your trailer is something to consider as the amount of weight you put inside the hull can compromise the strength of the trailer — a lot of the time the hull breaks due to people overloading it.
If you have a vessel with an outboard engine, supporting the weight of the engine on the back of your boat is vital. The back of your boat is put under huge strain when it has an outboard hanging off the back and is bouncing up and down. The best way to mitigate this is to travel with the motor trimmed all the way down and a ratchet strap can stop it from bouncing around.
Braking
It goes without saying that the amount of weight you’re towing affects your braking ability. To reiterate, you should always leave excess room in front of you when braking with a boat attached and always apply the brakes gently with plenty of time — not at the last minute which can create an accident.
With advancing technology for all sorts of trailer applications, one of our new products combines several features allowing for immediate and reliable brake application. The AL-KO iQ7 stores compressed air within a pressure chamber, allowing immediate brake application the instant it is required. This particular product was designed to significantly improve stopping performance and safety for trailers with hydraulic brakes, especially large boat trailers.
The iQ7 also, importantly, includes inbuilt breakaway technology to stop your trailer if it becomes detached from the tow vehicle — enabling you to meet the legal requirement that all trailers with a loaded weight exceeding 2T (2.5T in New Zealand) must incorporate power-assisted brake application.
We take safety very seriously here at AL-KO and with this in mind have ensured all iQ7s have been equipped with the latest superior computer processor circuit technology for maximum reliability. When it comes to towing a large rig, a microsecond can mean the difference between life and death and having a lagging system is just not acceptable.
An offroad boat trailer allows you to reach so many more incredible places in Australia and the cost and effort to enhance your trailer is quickly forgotten when you reach your first stunningly beautiful destination.
]]>Whether you’re a born tinkerer or simply looking for ways you can get more hands-on in your RV or caravan maintenance, there are plenty of simple tasks that can be done in or around your rig that don’t require a professional.
While the components that go into your van might be of the highest quality, all items tend to deteriorate with frequent use and weather exposure, and it’s a good idea to keep an eye out during your spring cleaning or journey preparation to ensure everything is in good condition.
Here are a couple of simple — and very satisfying — DIY tasks to undertake before your next adventure.
Most DIY projects will require some level of disassembling of parts, so before you jump right into the task, we recommend the best way to do it is to use a smartphone or digital camera to take photos of each step you as you go — making note of what part you’re removing from where.
This means that when it’s time to put everything back together you’ll have a step-by-step image guide to ensure you’re putting all the pieces back where they belong. And with parts all over your garage, having some guidance is the better option.
Window seals play an important role in weatherproofing your rig — protecting it from dust ingress through to water damage in the case of rain. But like many items throughout your RV, they do degrade over time and may need replacing.
This is a fairly simple task, and you should allow approximately an hour per window to do a good job.
Trailer wheel bearings may be small but there’s a lot of precise engineering that goes into their important job of keeping your wheels turning with little or no friction. These small parts are exposed to all matter of things that could potentially contaminate the grease (the number one reason for bearing failure) — from constant wetting, dirt, dust and various other on and offroad conditions — meaning they need to be cleaned and regreased according to manufacturer instructions to ensure they keep running smoothly.
While regreasing is not a tricky task, AL-KO recommends using a suitably qualified service agent as the best approach to maintenance.
It’s also good to be aware of the fact that regreasing can get messy. Grease can easily stain your hands and surfaces, so consider getting some gloves or heavy-duty soap ready, and put down a tarp or mat to protect your driveway or garage. A bit of preparation goes a long way when it comes to cleaning up after regreasing.
It’s best to work on a flat surface and you’ll ideally keep your van hitched up to the tow vehicle with the handbrake on to stop the van from rolling. Please note that the van’s park brake normally needs to be in the release position to gain access to the bearings. It’s also a good idea to place a large chock on the opposite wheel to the one you’re working on.
If replacing your wheel bearings is necessary, AL-KO recommends replacing the entire set (cup and cone) for optimal performance and life.
]]>We’re lucky to live in a country with one of the most diverse landscapes in the world … a landscape dominated by desert, dry heat and a hell of a lot of red dirt — contrasted against tropical oases, lush forests and breathtaking waterfalls. Not to mention the 12,000 beaches dotted along our ~60,000km of coastline. Now with so many varying and challenging terrains, it’s important your tow vehicle and caravan or camper trailer are in proper shape to handle them. To ensure your combination is performing correctly and to give you peace of mind when you’re off the beaten track, you must complete a few safety checks before embarking on any travel plans.
If you’re lucky enough to be the owner of a new caravan or camper trailer (brand new or pre-owned) and you’re yet to do a trip in your new rig, a shakedown is non-negotiable. A term taken from nautical circles, a ‘shakedown’ is where a new vessel is taken on a relatively short trip near to home to see if there are any mechanical or body faults or limitations. The whole idea of a shakedown is to address problems near to home before embarking on a long trip where finding help, or machinery, is much more difficult and at times impossible. The same is necessary for your first trip in a caravan because it’s inarguably a lot easier to find and fix mechanical problems in your base town or city versus 2000km away in the middle of the Simpson Desert.
Now, your shakedown should be more than just a lap around the block. To give your rig the attention it deserves, you should aim to spend one to two nights somewhere (not too far from home) with your van packed just as it would be for a longer trip. This is the perfect time to see how everything works in practice, how best to pack your gear, how to set up and pack down, and a chance to notice any additional bits and pieces you may need to acquire.
One of the most important considerations when towing any van or trailer is weight. Every tow vehicle and trailer are subject to weight limits which have been set by trailer and vehicle manufacturers after performing extensive testing. Staying within manufacturer-specified weight limits isn’t only for safety purposes, but also to help avoid receiving a hefty fine if you run into state road authorities doing random weight tests. Even worse, if you have an accident due to an overweight load, you will be held accountable, and your insurance will be invalid.
Your tow vehicle is crucial in determining the trailer load you can haul. In your tow vehicle is a manual, you’ll find two weights that indicate its maximum towing capacity: braked and unbraked.
Braked refers to how much a vehicle can tow when trailer brakes are in use.
Unbraked is legally restricted to 750kg.
A third figure to consider is the coupling download figure — this specifies the amount of downward force that can be exerted on a vehicle’s towball. You may have heard this will be 10 per cent of the overall towing capacity, but that isn’t always true … for example, European cars can have a much lower download limit.
Another necessary consideration is axle capacities — particularly the rear. Then, of course, there’s the GCM (Gross Combination Mass) which is the weight of the entire rig — this includes the vehicle, trailer/caravan/camper trailer and payload.
There are four main weight considerations of which to be aware when towing your caravan or camper trailer. These are usually found on a placard on the A-frame or tucked away somewhere toward the front.
Aggregate Trailer Mass (ATM) denotes the most your trailer can weigh. It includes the trailer itself and everything in and on it — i.e., the van, any fluids and total contents. It is the combined total of the downward force exerted by the wheels and jockey wheel.
Gross Trailer Mass (GTM) refers to the maximum weight that the wheels can collectively impose on the ground, or equal to the ATM minus the coupling downward weight.
Tare Weight is the weight of the trailer on its own as it left the factory, without any payload and after-market additions. Your tow vehicle will also have a tare weight — this is the vehicle weight as specified by the manufacturer and may include liquids such as fuel and coolant but does not include payload.
Towball Weight is often also referred to as the hitch weight. This is listed on the compliance plate of modern trailers, however, if yours is older, it can be calculated by subtracting the GTM from the ATM.
If you’re ever not sure about the exact weight of your combination, it’s a good idea to head to your nearest public weighbridge. With weight limits that are enforceable by law, it’s always best to know the correct number and not guess.
It goes without saying that driving a car towing a massive caravan is not the same as driving a regular vehicle. With the added length and weight, any small misstep can cause an accident. If you’re not comfortable towing a van, many motoring organisations offer driving and towing courses covering a variety of driving conditions. Aside from that, here are some handy towing tips from AL-KO that you can brush up on before your next trip:
Height and width — it’s vital to know the height and width of your caravan or camper trailer as these dictate where you can haul it. There are many narrow and obscured roads in Australia that only smaller models can get in and out of safely. Pay attention to bridge heights (particularly in cities if passing through) and low-hanging trees and don’t forget to consider your width when passing through narrow passages … another lesson you don’t want to learn the hard way.
Uphill hauling — if you have a steep uphill start, let your rig roll back a bit, steering so that your tow vehicle and trailer end up at a slight angle to one another. When you drive forward from this position, your vehicle will start by simply straightening out the trailer, rather than pulling the full weight up an incline from a stationary point — saving your clutch and fuel!
Stopping — no matter how advanced the electric brakes on your van are, braking with all that additional weight on the hitch will inevitably require a greater distance. Always leave more room than you think you’ll need and always ease off the accelerator and apply the brakes gently. Last-minute braking is not advised and is dangerous.
Gears — when heading downhill, change down gears to take pressure off your brakes. If you don’t do this, you’ll be putting them under extreme stress, risking overheating and potentially even brake failure on long descents.
Corners — when turning, always take a wider line to prevent your trailer from pivoting and cutting the corner. The distance between your coupling and the axles of the trailer will affect the point at which it pivots and will take a bit of getting used to with any unfamiliar vehicle-van setup.
Reversing — reversing a long and heavy rig is not without its challenges and it requires a lot of finesse and patience. As a general rule, point the caravan/camper trailer in the direction you want it to go and then manoeuvre the controls so that your vehicle essentially follows in the same direction. When looking at the back end of the van, turn your steering wheel towards the back end to make it go in the opposite direction. Maintain a manageable angle between the two until you can bring the tow vehicle in line with the van and straighten the wheels.
]]>Luckily for us, Australia has one of the most diverse and unique landscapes of all countries on earth. Due to its sheer size, it has many different climates and topography and if touring, you’ll quickly learn that it takes years to fully see everything this great country has to offer. However, it can’t be denied that Australia is a country of extremes. Due to these extremes, the outback and other remote areas must be entered with caution and safety preparations should always be the first consideration.
While you might roll your eyes when foreigners talk of their fears of coming to Australia due to stories of its wildlife – the man-eating spider myth hasn’t helped matters – there is definitely truth to the rumours of how dangerous Australia can be, especially when you’re away from the cities and in the hot, arid desert. And while there are animals that can strike you or your vehicle, it’s more likely that harsh weather and road conditions will bring tragedy on your travels.
With all this said, having a thorough plan and all the right safety gear on board can make all the difference to your outback adventure. Preparing for any possible scenario is crucial. Ultimately, the conditions in outback Australia are no joking matter and without the risk of sounding cliché, it’s better to be safe than sorry when it comes to packing everything you may need.
Any seasoned tourer knows that preparation goes well beyond planning where to go and packing lists. Sometimes people forget, especially if they haven’t been on the road properly in decades, that driving long distances on outback roads can take a toll on any driver, so it’s important to be in the right state of mind to be able to concentrate and be patient, and of course, always being well rested. It is extremely dangerous to drive while tired — particularly on monotonously long roads — so have a rough idea of how long it takes to get from one destination to another and take regular breaks to keep your focus sharp. It can also be hard to sleep at night in the outback during the warmer months due to the high temperatures. Being mentally and physically prepared is especially important when towing a caravan or camper trailer, as driving is more difficult and even the slightest unplanned movement can result in tragedy.
One of the most important things to consider is whether you have enough fuel and water. Without these two, your survival in the outback has little chance. Especially if it’s 40+ degrees … good luck going even an hour without water then. You should aim to have about 10L of water per person per day, which should be enough for drinking, cooking and washing, but make sure you’re conserving it whenever possible. With regards to fuel, try to top up whenever you can and it’s always a good idea to have a couple of jerry cans full so you can have peace of mind on those long drags between servos. You should know the terrain ahead, refuel points and your consumption so you can estimate your needs. If your tow adds about 2L per 100km on the highway, then it’s going to be a lot more if you’re in thick sand going uphill.
It’s also important to ensure your tyres are pumped and have sufficient tread to tackle whatever may come, and always have a spare with you. With this, it’s vital to be aware of your vehicle’s capabilities and limitations so you know exactly which roads or remote tracks you can travel on. If you haven’t towed a rig in a while or just need a few top tips, many motoring organisations offer driving and towing courses covering offroad driving conditions and will help you get prepared for all types of terrains.
You can’t prepare without packing the right things and when it comes to the outback, the items you might need can be extensive. Chiefly, you must have the right gear (including clothing, food and water) and you must have the correct safety equipment and supplies (including recovery, first aid and comms equipment).
First and foremost, good reliable communication is essential. This can be achieved in the form of a satellite phone (or sat phone). This is vital because mobile reception in Australia’s regional and remote areas can be poor. Although sat phones are not cheap, there are options to hire one from companies such as Landwide for a period of remote travel. Another handy comms tool is a personal locator beacon (PLB) which can show you or emergency services where you are if lost or in an emergency you can’t fix yourself. A good UHF CB radio is another potential addition — make sure you familiarise yourself with the emergency channels just in case. And if you have plans to work on the road or similar, consider updating to a modern satellite communication system such as Starlink. This system uses satellites through Elon Musk’s SpaceX to deliver superior net speeds in the most remote of locations. Just remember the receiver likes wide-open skies, so make sure to move the dish away from your rig if parked in a shady spot.
Another essential when travelling in the great Aussie outback is being able to know exactly where you are and where you’re headed. When you’re in vast areas with barely a signpost or soul as far as the eye can see, a GPS with remote-area mapping can help. If your GPS fails or runs out of power (this shouldn’t usually be a problem with in-car charging capabilities, but you never know) it’s wise to have a backup in the form of a paper map and compass. Although technology rules the roost when it comes to navigation, it’s important to be prepared when it does fail.
Any offroad tourer will know the vitalness of having a long-handed shovel and a pair of traction boards, such as GoTreads, in your vehicle. Soft sand can suck your tyres in and leave you stuck so it’s important you can get yourself out of the situation without needing to wait for another vehicle. Also, with the need to partially deflate your tyres in these conditions, you will need to consider bringing a pressure gauge and an air compressor to help pump them back up when you return to hard surfaces. You should also carry a snatch strap just in case you come across someone who needs help. And a jack plate can come in handy because if you are in soft terrain and need to change a tyre, your jack might just sink into the ground.
It’s also wise to have a kit of basic tools and materials to aid with accessory failure or similar — a lot of these breakdowns/failures have to do with aftermarket accessories like roof racks, bullbars, driving lights, battery trays, spare wheel carriers, UHF antennas and so on, as much as general vehicle systems (e.g., shocker rubbers, radiator, exhaust system, tyres and fuel tank). Due to the sheer amount of vibration and shock loads, it’s best to give yourself the tools and materials to repair or patch up. Once in the outback, Bunnings or Supercheap Auto are not just around the corner so consider enough vehicle fluids backup should something go wrong, such as engine, brake, transmission fluid, and so on.
And of course, you can’t go on any trip without a medical or first aid kit. Not only is it important to have the right kit with all the right bits and bobs, but you must possess the knowledge to know how to use it. Your kit should be tailored to your personal needs, such as backups of personal medications, but it must also include everything you would need to keep an injured or unwell person in a stable condition until proper medical help arrives.
Lastly, consider making up a backpack survival kit for those longer trips. The idea here is this will get you through the next 72 hours, so should contain energy-dense food such as muesli bars, freeze-dried foods, water bottles, up-to-date maps, waterproof matches, a PLB, a fold-out shovel and medical supplies.
Ultimately, survival is about having the right knowledge, equipment, state of mind and discipline to get home safely. We like to follow the ‘Principles of Survival’ known as Protection, Rescue, Water and Food. It’s important to follow these principles in sequence and without deviation. Here’s a summary from Australia’s leading adventures and mapping business, Hema Maps:
PROTECTION — this refers to the protection from infection, accident and the environment. For example, remove yourself from a burning vehicle and tend to the wounds of others. Erect a shelter to get out of the sun, wind and rain. If your 4WD is safe to be near, a good way to protect yourself from the elements in the outback is to dig a shallow pit underneath as it will be cooler during the day than sitting under the awning.
RESCUE — this starts before you leave home. Tell people where you’re going and when you expect to be there. On the road, call your designated contacts and let them know what you’re doing as well as when you arrive at each location. If you do break down, stay with the car. Aerial searchers will be able to find your vehicle much easier than if you’re walking around. Activate your PLB sooner rather than later and set up passive signalling devices, like a giant SOS in the sand. When writing in the sand, try to make the letters at least 6m long and 1m wide, or utilise logs and dark vegetation to create contrast. Snap off the mirrors and light fittings from your car and string them up on a tree (or from a pole) so that they swing in the breeze and reflect sunlight. You can also make a signal fire — consider using one of your spare (or busted) tyres to generate lots of smoke.
WATER — stay hydrated by rationing your sweat, not your water. This is why the Western Australian police recommend travelling with 4–5L of drinking water per person per day. It’s best to carry water in various containers and have a spare jerry containing just emergency water. Have drink bottles handy in the car for every occupant so that your travel party remains hydrated while you’re on the road. You can use your survival blanket as both a passive rescue aid and as a way of capturing dew in the morning.
FOOD — you should have plenty of food on board for all passengers. While it’s important to carry non-perishable canned food, you can save weight by supplementing these supplies with a few dehydrated packages like peas, textured soy, powdered milk, dried fruit, instant potato and more. You should also have at least 72 hours of emergency rations tucked away in your ‘grab bag’ or ‘backpack survival kit’ (as mentioned above). Think of dehydrated or freeze-dried instant meals, cups of soup, a bag of rice and another of flour. Bags of seeds and nuts and some tinned tuna can go a long way too. Another handy item is a small food box in the vehicle’s cabin — including all your favourite on-the-road munchies like protein bars, lollies and chips.
Whether you are hauling a camper trailer or caravan, it is your foundation that will be carrying your accommodation and all your gear. It’s therefore vital to ensure the correct choice is made when picking a suspension system and chassis.
AL-KO produces chassis in Australia for tough Aussie conditions. When AL-KO acquired G&S Chassis, they inherited the ‘built to last’ craftsmanship synonymous with the brand and the experience to build chassis that will not rattle apart on rough roads like South Australia’s Oodnadatta Track. Having a sturdy base that will go everywhere your 4WD will pull is vital, as having a caravan breakdown can leave you almost as vulnerable as a tow vehicle breakdown would.
AL-KO’s range of suspension options and correct selection will minimise vibration through your tow vehicle, reducing fatigue on the build and failure of crucial equipment. Having a super-high-capacity suspension is not ideal — it will be too rigid, and vibrations will be excessive. Having the correct suspension and chassis on board is critical for surviving the outback.
]]>Hitching up a caravan is not rocket science, although, it’s a bit like a pilot going through their safety checks — you need to ensure that everything is in order every step of the way. But once you’ve done this, the actual process is quite simple. A good idea is to have some sort of a ‘Hitching Checklist’ so, like the pilot, you can have the peace of mind that you’ve completed every step. Even after years of towing, a checklist can be a great help in ensuring that the rig is safely hitched and ready to go. When stationary, problems are easy to address — it’s when you realise a hitch error at 80km/h in traffic that the problem becomes difficult and dangerous to address while on the side of the road.
Before you begin hitching up your pride and joy, it’s important to do some homework to ensure that the vehicle and van match up. Never assume ‘it’ll be right’ — it’s always best to check. If your vehicle already has a towbar, don’t think it’ll automatically cope with towing the van you intend to hitch up. For example, an 1800kg-rated towbar won’t be much help towing your new 22ft Wonderland RV XTR 2200. A sticker or plate should be attached to the towbar assembly with the maximum weights and what vehicle the towbar is intended for. You should also consider your vehicle’s weight and wheelbase — how will hauling 3.2T affect your vehicle performance or will the van push your car around?
Now that you’re armed with the load ratings of the towbar, you need to verify the van’s ATM (Aggregate Trailer Mass) on the caravan manufacturer’s plate. This is the total maximum allowable weight supported by the van’s tyres when coupled to the towing vehicle, including any payload. Obviously, this weight must not exceed the maximum permitted towing weight for the vehicle and its towbar. Your vehicle might be rated to pull 3.5T, but you need to check vehicle limitations (such as combined mass) when hitching up a heavy tow. Ideally, after loading you should head to your nearest weighbridge to check that the weight is correct.
Additionally, the caravan’s ball weight should not exceed the vehicle’s maximum allowable ball weight. The caravan’s ball weight should also appear on the manufacturer’s plate. If not, you can calculate it by subtracting the GTM (Gross Trailer Mass — the maximum that can be supported by the van’s road wheels minus the jockey wheel) from the ATM. A towball weight scale is a great tool to check that the ball weight is correct.
Lastly, before you start, check if the vehicle manufacturer has any specific hitch instructions — to use load levellers or not, for example. And ensure that the vehicle’s electric plug matches the van’s seven-pin (or 12) plug. You should also check if the van requires an Anderson plug to power any other systems like an AL-KO ESC system.
REMEMBER: The handbrake in your tow vehicle must be on until you are fully hitched.
One of the most vital factors of hitching up, which isn’t always as obvious as it should be, is ensuring you carry out the process on level ground. When you hitch up a van, the additional load on the rear of the vehicle should not cause it to drop more than about 20mm on its suspension (or cause a corresponding rise at the front wheels) otherwise steering, braking and trailer sway issues may arise. This is where load levelling devices come in — the load levellers transfer the additional weight from the rear wheels onto the front wheels.
Check the static height of the vehicle before and after you hitch up the caravan. This is best done with both the vehicle and van loaded as they would be for your trip. Measure from the lip of the wheel arch to the centre of the wheel or to the ground. You should also check that the towball is at the same height as your hitch when the caravan is sitting level — one method to match heights is to rotate the hitch receiver. And remember to ensure that the drawbar runs parallel to the ground.
The subject of many tears and frustration, the reversing-in stage of hitching up despite sounding very straightforward requires a bit of finesse. The easiest way of course is to have another person guide you through the process from the outside of the tow vehicle. However, if you are by yourself and unable to have anyone assist, a reversing camera is the next best thing. Although it must be said that using a camera doesn’t mean it’ll be perfect. Ideally, having both a person and reversing camera makes for the smoothest process.
And remember, even if you have a reversing camera, you should still get out and survey the ground around the van before you back up, as you may find that a low tap or retaining wall is right in the way of where you intend to swing your vehicle. And you should still perform head checks as you reverse close to the A-frame — don’t keep your eyes glued to the screen the whole way.
When you have positioned the towball directly under the coupling, it’s time to wind down the jockey wheel. It’s unlikely for anything to go awry at this point, but it’s still recommended to position your feet as far away as possible from the A-frame and stand clear of items mounted to the drawbar.
With the coupling handle pulled up the coupling seats onto the towball, once seated, the handle needs to engage with the towball. The handle lifts but it’s often stiff and may require a fair bit of effort to release, and then it’s often easiest to use the spring-loaded clip to keep the handle up as you engage the coupling. You must remember to release the coupling so that this handle is fully seated again to be sure the coupling is locked in place.
If you’re unable to retract the jockey wheel fully so that the tow vehicle takes all the weight, you may have a problem with the towball height. If you encounter this problem, check that the tow hitch is the legal height from the ground — the centre of the body of the ball coupling needs to be 350–460mm from the ground when laden. If the height is within spec, you will need to support the A-frame so that you can mount the jockey wheel in the position where it can be released as the vehicle takes the weight.
Now that you’ve got your coupling locked in and the jockey wheel raised and put away, it’s time to secure the safety chain(s) and plug in the trailer electrics. Ensure that the chain length is sufficient to reach the locating point(s) provided on the body of the towbar while being able to negotiate corners.
If the chain is too long and touches the ground, you can get links removed. You could also connect the shackle down the line into a more appropriate link. With two chains, ensure to cross the chains so that if the couple does come off, the chains will stop it from hitting the ground. Not dragging your chain is important because it only takes a very minor amount of wear to vastly reduce the chains’ capacity. If chains have been dragged and worn you should investigate replacing them.
Wiring for caravan/camper trailer lights and electric brakes (where fitted) needs to be matched to the plug on the tow vehicle. If the connectors do not match between the vehicle and the van/trailer, an adaptor can be used. Ensure you’ve got enough slack in the van/trailer plug to allow for turning but not enough for it to scrape on the ground. And always remember to check that the lights are working before taking off, just because you are plugged in doesn’t mean all the lights are functioning.
REMEMBER: It is a legal requirement in all states that caravans over two tonnes GTM are fitted with a caravan breakaway system, or independent brakes that will immediately kick in if the van becomes disconnected from the tow vehicle. For more information on this, click here.
With the caravan hitched up, you can now redo your wheel arch measurements to see if the difference is more than 20mm and thus if either load levelling or load redistribution is required. Before you invest in load levellers, ensure that your caravan and tow vehicle loads are properly distributed. If possible, try to load the heaviest items over the axle of the caravan and ahead of the rear axle in the tow vehicle.
Ultimately, the angle of the hitch and the number of chain links used are crucial, and the way you tell if you’ve been successful is if the vehicle is level. Lastly, you don’t want to drive off with something undone, so before you head off, always make a five-point visual check of the handbrake, coupling, connection (electrical), chains and jockey wheel.
]]>Being able to tow your rig safely and remaining in control in an emergency situation is one of the key concerns of any caravanner. The most obvious way to do this is to buy an expensive unit with all the safety bells and whistles. Another way is to purchase specialised aftermarket safety products to fit your unit with. The latter, although seeming more complicated, allows you to customise your van more and pick products that are not confined to the caravan manufacturer’s choices. To do the latter, you’ll first need to choose between a plethora of products found both in-store and online. Considering there are so many different brands and price points to choose from, we’ve tried to make your life a little easier by presenting five of our favourite safety accessories — that you should consider installing if safer towing is what you’re after.
Let’s be honest, handling a big tow vehicle and caravan configuration is not the same as handling a regular car. Luckily, nowadays there is advanced technology which makes the whole process easier and safer. AL-KO’s Tow Assist is a world-first in safety technology. AL-KO collaborated with the prestigious Dexter and Bosch brands to bring this vital safety technology to life. The system combines anti-lock braking, sway mitigation and evasive action control to protect you in a wider range of driving situations. Utilising individual wheel speed sensors allows the nervous system to communicate with the intelligent system, providing individual wheel control. By being able to control each wheel individually, you have greater control of your vehicle, hence being able to tow more comfortably and confidently.
Fitting an Emergency Stability Control (ESC) system to your caravan can give you peace of mind that you’ve done everything you can possibly do to make sure you and your passengers are safe. Ultimately, assisted braking could end up saving your life, and choosing the best system on the market should be a no-brainer. AL-KO’s ESC system simultaneously applies the brakes to all wheels and wipes off speed in critical situations.
This is a sophisticated electronic brake actuation system that automatically responds to the driving behaviour of the caravan by monitoring for any dangerous lateral movements and taking preventative action immediately. As it was the first of its kind to come onto the Australian market, its likeness has been mimicked by many systems, yet after a decade it remains a very strong choice for new purchases and retro fitment. It’s engineered, developed and still built in Australia, using the best quality products to ensure every journey you take is safer and more pleasurable.
If you have towed a caravan in windy conditions, chances are you know the scary feeling of the wind catching hold of your rig and moving you about. These days technology exists that can prevent your caravan from swaying and mitigate that feeling no caravanner wants to have. Dexter Sway Control is an incredible safety product designed to detect trailer sway and dampen it. The Sway Control system works by continuously monitoring trailer yaw (side-to-side movement). It does this by measuring the angle, travel distance and speed of the lateral motion of the trailer (and other parameters) and uses this information to quickly intervene with the application of independent left or right-side trailer brakes. As a driving situation advances, continuous monitoring provides advancing intervention to match the situation until it’s brought under control.
Ultimately, towing a heavy caravan does decrease braking ability, meaning you need to be present and prepared whenever you hit the brakes in your tow vehicle. And, importantly, leave much more room in front of you than you would when braking in a regular vehicle. If you get caught in conversation or another vehicle presents you with a dangerous situation, you’ll want to have AL-KO’s iQ7 Electronic Air/Hydraulic Brake Booster on board.
Developed in Australia for marine and touring applications, the iQ7 works by storing compressed air within a pressure chamber, allowing immediate brake application the instant it is required. Unfortunately, a common downfall of some earlier electro-hydraulic brake actuators was time lag or delayed response time. This is due to the delay in receiving a signal from the controller and the time taken for the electric drive motor to pump enough fluid to activate the master cylinder. By utilising a compressed air reservoir to provide instant activation of the hydraulic master cylinder, AL-KO’s iQ7 can deliver unparalleled response times.
At the end of the day, safety is an area where shortcuts must never be taken. Risking safety is risking your life, and AL-KO keeps this front of mind when designing its products. With this in view, products such as the iQ7 are equipped with the latest superior computer processor circuit technology for maximum reliability. Plus, the iQ7 is compatible with AL-KO’s ESC mentioned above, allowing electronic stability control for disc brakes. Previously, disc brakes meant sacrificing stability control, but now you can have both when you use these two products together.
Australia’s arid and vast landscape teamed with its scorching heat creates a unique mix of challenging terrain and topography. In the outback especially, it can get very dusty, sandy and dry, and the conditions need to be approached with more caution than with regular touring.
The AL-KO iQ7 Outback, like the iQ7, is the latest in power-assisted hydraulic braking, but the Outback is designed especially for harsh and dusty conditions. The Outback has extra filtration to cope with dust and provides the driver with the ability to service and replace filters without the need for special tools or skills. Coupled with AL-KO hydraulic disc brakes, the iQ7 Outback provides safe and reliable braking in the harshest Aussie conditions. And just like the iQ7, the iQ7 Outback includes inbuilt breakaway technology to stop your trailer if it becomes detached from your tow vehicle — something every caravanner will appreciate.
There’s nothing as liberating as being on the road with your home attached, ready to make any place your sanctuary. The freedom that comes with this lifestyle is hard to beat, which is why it has become an increasingly popular choice for many Australians. Fortunately, the land mass of our fair nation is among the biggest in the world, which makes it perfect for long, offroad adventures. Whether you’re taking on the mighty Big Lap, enjoying a moderate jaunt to the Top End or just doing a small trip through the Yarra Valley, there are universal caravanning truths which apply to all. Read on to discover five important things all caravanners should know before embarking on a tour, and some products which could make your life on the road a whole lot easier.
Without a doubt the most critical part of caravanning is having an adequate setup between your van and tow vehicle and being able to control this setup safely. Towing a caravan is no easy feat. With some van and tow vehicle configurations being upwards of 15 metres long, it can be like driving a truck. In fact, most states in Australia require you to have a light truck licence when towing a rig over a certain weight. At present, the law is if the GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass) of your tow vehicle exceeds 4500kg, you need a light truck licence or equivalent to legally drive it.
Being able to successfully and comfortably tow a caravan comes with years of practical experience. If you’ve never towed a van or are an unconfident driver, taking a caravan driving course can teach you all the necessary skills and allow you to practice them in a controlled environment. There is added responsibility on the road when towing a large rig, so ensuring you can handle this responsibility is an important safety consideration.
Apart from perfecting your towing skills, there are a range of aftermarket products available which make handling a caravan much easier. An incredible product is AL-KO’s Tow Assist — the world’s first caravan braking system with ABS and sway mitigation. Developed in collaboration with Bosch, this incredible technology allows you to be in complete control of your rig while also decreasing the chance of jack-knifing your trailer during panic or dynamic braking, keeps your trailer in line with your tow vehicle during sway events and quickly applies and disengages brakes without driver input.
Another incredible product from AL-KO is its iQ7 Electronic Air/Hydraulic Brake Booster. As previously mentioned, towing decreases braking ability, which means you need to be mindful and prepared whenever you hit the brakes in your tow vehicle. Braking at the last minute and not having enough room in front of you can cause an accident, so having a product like the iQ7 is a superb assistant on this front. The iQ7 stores compressed air within a pressure chamber, allowing immediate brake application the instant it is required. Historically, disc brakes meant sacrificing stability control, but with the iQ7 you can achieve both when combined with AL-KO ESC. It must also be mentioned that the iQ7 includes inbuilt breakaway technology to stop your trailer if it becomes detached from your tow vehicle.
The sheer size of Australia, not to mention its challenging terrain, makes it a difficult country to navigate. Not only that but 85 per cent of Australia’s population and its built-up areas take up a relatively small amount of the land mass and congregate on the coast. Meaning, there is a massive area in the middle of the country that is empty and without cellular reception.
So, how do you navigate a monster of a country? Well, as a first, you shouldn’t be relying on mobile data or phone reception alone to keep your maps going. You might not be able to find your way back out if you do that. Being able to navigate offline is an underrated ability in today’s age — people seem to forget that the internet is not infallible and that it doesn’t actually reach every corner of the universe, especially in the outback. Nowadays, there are tools available which remove all the hassle from navigation. A fantastic tool is Hema’s range of GPS navigators. Not only can you use them offline, but the HX-2 Navigator, for example, tells you the type of road, whether the road is accessible by the public, the steepness of the terrain and much more, adding a sense of security to any adventure. With more than 100,000 Hema-moderated listings including over 40,000 Hema-verified points of interest, Hema’s range of GPS navigators opens a whole world of information many tourers are not privy to. Peace of mind in the outback is priceless and having the ability to navigate offline gives you just that.
As with navigation, communication in a massive country with varying topography can be challenging. With all the horror stories you hear of campers going missing, communication is a vital element to ensure your survival when far in the bush away from any civilisation.
There is a huge chunk of land that makes up the majority of Australia sitting without any people and without cellular reception. If you enter this seemingly endless vastness, it’s important you have the right communication system to be able to reach emergency services and other essential contacts.
If you’re heading out bush, you’ll need a radio or a satphone (satellite phone). Although radios are more expensive to set up, they work out cheaper in the long run as they don’t incur ongoing costs. UHF (Ultra High Frequency) radio is the most common for recreational use. You don’t need a licence to purchase a UHF, however, it is not suitable for communication over long distances.
Satphones can be used to make phone calls just like a regular phone, but they communicate directly with satellites rather than cell towers. They’re simple to use and better for private conversations than radios, however, call costs can be high, so it’s usually recommended to use them for emergencies only. Keep in mind that satphones don’t often work in areas of heavy tree cover or in deep gorges — they prefer wide-open skies.
Another option growing more popular by the day is Starlink, a satellite internet constellation operated by American aerospace company SpaceX. Starlink allows caravanners to access the internet in the most remote of locations, really changing the game when it comes to remote internet access and making phone calls over wi-fi.
Intense heat, challenging terrain and a bevy of wild and unpredictable fauna make the Australian outback a place to enter with great caution. The two most important pieces of safety equipment all tourers should have on board, we believe, are a first aid kit and a fire extinguisher. The third most important piece is some form of recovery gear — being stuck in the middle of nowhere can be incredibly stressful, but it’s even more stressful if you don’t have the necessary safety equipment on board to get you free.
No trip to the outback (or anywhere, for that matter) is complete without a first aid kit. We recommend the SURVIVAL Vehicle First Aid Kit for all vehicles in Australia. The SURVIVAL Vehicle First Aid Kit is durable, rugged and water-resistant and has been designed with weight and space in mind, without compromising any of the items on your motorist first aid checklist.
Another good idea is to brush up on your skills via a first aid refresher course before heading off. Being able to use the tools you have on board is just as important as having them, so consider a first aid course if you have not recently taken part.
Some other safety non-negotiables you should have on board include a standard toolkit, socket set, an adjustable wrench, a kinetic rope or snatch strap, a standard vehicle jack, a length of chain or tow rope, jump leads, a can of WD-40 (of course), a torch, a length of plastic tubing in case you have to transfer fuel, a long-handled shovel and a portable air compressor to reinflate the tyres after you’re off the beach.
Establishing your water and power needs (and making sure you can meet them) before embarking on a tour is one of the most important pre-trip necessities. Power supply has the potential to make or break your holiday. These days, caravans are sophisticated pieces of machinery. This means their power systems are increasingly sophisticated and prospective buyers need to be educated on the power system’s configuration and how it affects power usage.
Most of your van’s appliances (such as lights, TV and so on) will run on either (or both) 240V mains power or 12V battery power. Others, such as your cooktop, barbecue and perhaps your heater will most likely require gas, while a generator or space heater may use diesel.
All these power sources need to be understood and considered carefully to ensure a successful camping trip — from when and where you’ll access 240V power if needed and how you’ll power your 12V batteries, to where and how you’ll source and carry your additional fuels such as gas or diesel.
The amount of water you can take on board affects your payload and towing, so it’s important you establish the correct amount where you’re not taking too much and overloading your tow vehicle (and therefore using more fuel) and not taking too little where you won’t have enough to go to the loo or run a shower for the duration of your trip.
]]>They say that the most important thing is just to ‘get out there’. Whether it’s with a tent, a camper trailer or caravan – just getting into nature is what counts. And I agree – up to a point.
But we’re all humans with basic needs that have to be met. Any trip into the bush will quickly become an exercise in frustration if they aren’t. Having just spent a few nights camping by myself in a tent on Victoria’s Ninety Mile Beach, I couldn’t help but reflect on why I’d opt for a caravan or camper trailer any day of the week.
There’s a reason I put this first. Caravans offer unrivalled convenience, whether you’re in the High Country or on the Coral Coast. Regardless of how extensive your tent-camping setup, the ability to simply unhitch and have everything you need at your fingertips, without having to rifle through tubs or dig a hole for a toilet, makes any trip much more enjoyable.
Cooking over a campfire has plenty of appeal. I’ve done it many times and thoroughly enjoy it. However, who among us wouldn’t prefer to use an actual kitchen, even if just once in a while, when on tour? No smoke to contend with, no bugs to battle. Just you and the cooktop. Oh, the oven too, because let’s not forget many caravans have those.
If you’d rather barbecue, remember: barbecues are readily available for caravans and campers. Sure, if you’re tent camping, it’s possible you brought a compact one or two-burner stove with you, but wouldn’t you rather just pull out the barbie on the side of the van, hook it to the bayonet coupling, and start cooking? Much easier than fiddling around with a portable unit and those disposable gas cartridges.
What about keeping your perishables cold? Ice inside a portable cooler is great, but what happens when it’s melted and you’re 250km from the nearest store? You won’t have that problem in a caravan fitted out with a three-way or compressor fridge.
So you think your stretcher bed is pretty comfortable. Fair enough. But have you ever slept on a pillowtop mattress inside a caravan? During my recent camping trip, I opted to sleep on a stretcher bed inside my tent. The cold air coming up from below made the experience almost intolerable – and despite my attempts at insulation, I couldn’t help but regret leaving the van at home.
There are, of course, ways around this. Opting for an air mattresses instead of a stretcher should help, since trapped air is an excellent insulator. But have you ever slept on an air mattress that’s more comfortable than a proper mattress inside a caravan?
Regardless of where you are in Australia, it’s likely you’ll experience some cold nights. There’s no getting around that. Camping in a tent offers very few options to combat the nighttime cold, other than rugging up and climbing into a properly rated sleeping bag.
I don’t know about you, but I’d rather switch the caravan’s reverse-cycle air-con to ‘heat’ for an hour or two before getting into bed than sleeping with a beanie on. Or perhaps your van has a space heater of a different sort. The point is, it’s much easier to regulate your body temperature and stay comfortable in a van than even the most well-made tent.
If your caravan has an ensuite, you’re already well ahead of the game in terms of keeping clean. Or perhaps it’s a camper trailer with only an external shower setup. Still, that’s not bad. Tent-camping, on the other hand, puts you at the mercy of a portable shower (assuming you have one) or the public amenities block (assuming it’s clean and not chock full of other campers).
Further, in a caravan you’ll have lovely hot water to look forward to. Can the same be said of your tent-camping setup?
Okay, all of this makes me seem like a caravan snob. I understand that. But having camped in all kinds of ways over years, I’ve concluded that staying in a caravan or camper trailer translates to a more enjoyable trip and better memories, not to mention the desire to stay out there longer.
Less time and effort spent mucking around to meet your basic needs means more time enjoying the trip.
I am absolutely not against tent-camping, especially as a way to get into the touring lifestyle on a budget, or for just a few nights away with mates. But as a long-term proposition? No thanks. There are reasons that caravanning is Australia’s pastime – and I’ve just listed five of them.
Max Taylor
Max Taylor has been caravanning since he was a kid and was the editor of some of Australia’s most well-known RV publications for almost 10 years.
]]>But don’t believe any of it. While there are within the borders of Kakadu seemingly endless reasons to visit, here is just one: Ubirr.
Ubirr is a rock formation within the East Alligator region of Kakadu. Known for its stunning Aboriginal rock art and breathtaking views across the Nadab floodplain, Ubirr truly is one of the jewels in the Kakadu crown.
There are plenty of places to set-up your van or pitch your tent in Kakadu, from ‘managed’ campgrounds with various amenities, including hot showers, to ‘unmanaged’ campgrounds, which offer a place to park-up and very little else.
Ubirr is in the northern section of Kakadu. It is a fairly long drive from the main tourist centre of Jabiru. Therefore, it might be a good move to park for the night at Merl Campground, which is just 3km from Ubirr. The campground not only has beautiful sites but showers, toilets and a separate zone for people who wish to use their generator too. Camping fees are collected on site.
Many people time their visit to Ubirr for late afternoon. That way, they can meander the 1km circular track which provides excellent views of the Aboriginal rock art galleries, many of which are within natural shelters such as caves. Among these incredible displays is a painting of a thylacine (Tasmanian tiger), which became extinct on the Australian mainland about 2000 years ago! It is awe-inspiring, to say the least.
While Kakadu contains numerous other displays of rock art accessible to the public, such as the galleries in Nourlangie, Ubirr has greater variety.
As the sun begins to set, be sure to climb the relatively easy 250m track to a rock plateau. It’ll take 20 to 30 minutes to reach the perfect vantage point – people with mobility issues may have some difficult and might prefer to stay behind and continue admiring the rock art.
Those who make the trek, however, will be rewarded with a stunning display as the sun lowers in the sky, lighting up the Nadab floodplain in red, orange and golden hues that will stay with you long after you have left. Even the rocks upon which you’ll sit seem to glow.
Ubirr is about 40km from Jabiru. It is easy to access, even by 2WD, as the road is fully sealed. It is, however, low-lying. Therefore, after heavy rain, access may be restricted. The best time to visit is during the Dry (roughly May to October). Not only should the road to Ubirr be unrestricted, so too should the tracks out to some of Kakadu National Park’s other attractions, such as Maguk (Barramundi Gorge).
The Bowali Visitor Information Centre in Jabiru is a wealth of information and should be your first port of call for any Kakadu visit.
Max Taylor
Max Taylor has been caravanning since he was a kid and was the editor of some of Australia’s most well-known RV publications for almost 10 years.
]]>As caravanners, we are always learning. Sure, there are people who are very experienced, but regardless, there is always room to remind ourselves of best practices and perhaps even learn a new tip or two.
Here at Without A Hitch, we’re always keen to impart the ideas and advice we’ve learned along the way. That being said, here are five caravanning tips that might make all the difference during your caravan adventures.
When choosing a new caravan, aim for the towing capacity of the tow vehicle to be greater than the loaded weight of the van, rather than being right on the ATM.
Generally speaking, the heavier the tow vehicle relative to the weight of the van, the better. This will make it harder for the ‘tail to wag the dog’, so to speak.
For example, the first-generation Isuzu MU-X can legally tow 3000kg with 300kg on the towball. However, that doesn’t necessarily make towing that way an excellent idea. From experience, I can tell you the vehicle feels more stable and settled with no more than 2500kg hitched up.
Fact: any caravan will take a shorter path around a corner than the vehicle to which it is attached. This means as you round corner, the van is in some danger of striking the curb, a street sign, a tree or worse.
It is imperative, therefore, that approach corners as widely as practical – and within reason and the law, of course. Keep your eye on the tow mirrors, looking for overhanging branches, pedestrians, etc. And remember: while the van will cut in on a corner, it will under some conditions, likely have a wide outside tail sweep, meaning the rear of the van could strike someone or something.
If your caravan and tow vehicle combination is longer than 7.5m, you are legally entitled to display a ‘Do Not Overtake Turning Vehicle’ sign on the rear of the van, which would be worth considering.
Before heading off on a trip, inspect the remaining tread on your caravan/vehicle tyres. A minimum of 5mm tread depth is recommended.
Check for uneven wear. On your tow vehicle, this could indicate that the front wheels are in need of an alignment.
Be sure to check for foreign objects embedded in the tread pattern, such as stones or even screws. Soon or later, it’s likely that such objects will cause a leak.
Further, carefully consider the correct pressures for your tyre types. Applying the so-called ‘4psi rule’ for light-truck tyres is one way to obtain the correct pressure. Essentially, measure the psi of your tyres when they’re cold, i.e., before heading off for the day. When the tyres are at operating temperature – after an hour on the highway, for example – measure the pressure again. You’re aiming to see an increase in pressure of 4psi.
If you struggle to reverse your caravan, or you need to manoeuvre the van into a tight storage spot at home, we recommend a caravan mover. They are on the pricey side but they are well worth it.
There are numerous such movers on the market, from portable devices that can be clamped to the A-frame in place of the jockey wheel, to movers that are permanently fixed to the chassis, with ‘wheels’ that act upon the caravan’s wheels to ‘drive’ and ‘steer’ the caravan in the required direction – all at the push of a button on a remote control.
Remember: the amount of weight being imposed on your tow vehicle’s towbar via the caravan’s coupling is a dynamic thing. It will change from one trip to another, depending on how and where payload is located inside the van, whether or not the water tanks or gas cylinders are full, etc.
Therefore, we highly recommend investing in a portable ball weight scale – and make sure you use it – periodically during a trip. This is a great way to ensure you never exceed the maximum ball weight of your tow vehicle.
Max Taylor
Max Taylor has been caravanning since he was a kid and was the editor of some of Australia’s most well-known RV publications for almost 10 years.
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